It seems the more time I need to put into prepping, the less time I have available. I’ve cut back on gaming, TV, movies, etc but there just isn’t enough time in the day. I know I’m not alone in this dilemma, and all we can do is muddy through.
I’m still working on my “prepping in 30 minutes a day” system. I’ll have some time this afternoon, and I hope to finish it off, review it and post it this week.
I spent some time in the workshop yesterday. I have been working on resolving a storage dilemma I know most preppers have. How can I store stuff, but have it portable? I’ve been banging away at Google Sketchup designing a way to build a wooden storage box that is stackable, sturdy, lightweight, and can be built from stuff you find in a Big Box store. I built a prototype yesterday, but it was a bit to heavy (about 20 pounds), and a bit too large. One feature of this design is the height can be customized to whatever you want, the boxes still stack without a problem.
There are commercial alternatives made from plastic that would cost about the same. First, wood will take more abuse than plastic. Wood dings and splinters, where plastic shatters. Secondly, these can be built and repaired post-TEOTWAWKI with hand tools and time. Finally, you cannot access your stuff from the side. My design has one side that can drop down, allowing easy access to the contents, even when stacked floor to ceiling. If you have crates that you don’t want to have that feature, then don’t build them that way.That leads me to the other advantage: build it however you want! I’m planning on building different models.
“Jumbo” – roughly 36w x 22d x 12h – holds six #10 cans, with thin dividers in-between to keep them from getting banged up.Also used for big, but light things like clothes, blankets, gear, etc.
“Bigin” – roughly 20w x 16d x 12h – holds eight 1qt mason jars, or sixteen 1pt mason jars. Shallower versions of this would be ideal for tools, screws, nuts & bolts, nails, etc.
“Normal” – roughly 16w x 12d x10h – holds 24 cans (beans, veggies, Spaghetti-O’s), ammo, books, magazines, and other heavier items.
When I get a working prototype I will post a full writeup, with plans, and how to build them en masse, to drive costs lower. I expect the sizes to vary some, until I am happy with the weight to contents ratio. I’m shooting for a container that is sturdy enough to hold up to some abuse, but light enough that it isn’t heavier than what it is carrying.
I’m also working on my role post-TEOTWAWKI. I’m anxiously waiting for my body armor to come in. I also have most of my weapon upgrades in, but not all. I’m putting some time and effort into my main weapons platform, my M1A, to improve my performance as a “designated marksman” after the collapse of civilization. While waiting for parts, some of which has taken over three months to get, I’ve been doing some reading and a lot of thinking. I have a post in the works on post-TEOTWAWKI tactics, and expect more tactical homework assignments to illustrate the difference in military and police tactics and what I feel the tactics we should be using post-TEOTWAWKI. The Military’s tactics are centered around taking and controlling ground, with air, artillery, and more importantly logistical and medical support. There is a percentage of “acceptable losses” when executing an attack plan. As a prepper, I don’t want to have to attack anything. This is why I don’t see the weight of my battle rifle as a problem, I don’t have to assault some hill with it and a hundred+ rounds of ammo. I’m holed up in my house with all the ammo I want, but with zero logistical and medical support.
I cannot wait to see how my M1A performs with these modifications! I feel like a kid at Christmas. I could have bought a decked-out M1A from Fulton Armory for $3k+, but I didn’t have $3k to spend. I did drop about $900 in these upgrades. My plan is to circle back when my budget allows and buy a top-notch M1A receiver and barrel from a place like Fulton Armory, and all the other missing bits like op-rod, trigger group, etc and install it into the stock I bought for my “stock” M1A I have now. Then I’ll have dual M1A’s, and can sell the Franken-FAL – my backup battle rifle.
I’m still downloading and evaluating apps for my tablet, and will post my findings soon. I also want to revisit the “survival computer” but avoid all discussion of hardware — it changes way to fast. I want to focus on software you should have and what options you have with your operating system.
Last, but certainly not least, I want to go over a backup procedure for us preppers. You are your data, and having a copy of that easily accessible, but secure, is something we all need.
So I have quite a few articles in the works that I know will be helpful, but time has my butt in a vise and someone is turning the handle.
Tags: preps, security - computer, tactics, woodworking
I’m very interested in what you come up with for those crates. I’m especially interested in any tips you can provide on making them as inexpensively as possible. You mention that they will open from the top and from a side…are you using hinges? $$$!
Consider trying cheap fence boards. Those can be quite a value.
Also, here is a link to the guaranteed best “survival computer”.
http://www.examiner.com/images/blog/wysiwyg/image/Garden-Books.jpg
I like your idea for storage “boxes”. Couple of ideas: How about making the sizes such that the largest would allow two of the next size containers inside of it. The second size would store two of the third smaller etc. This would allow compact storage of the empties AND it would allow for the ability to stack neatly as well.
Another idea would be to base the largest size on the standard pallet. That is four boxes (or three or five) would fit a pallet perfectly without lapping over the end or allowing unused space.
The standard design, i.e. plywood sides with 1″x2″ strapping around the edges nailed/screwed together like a typical shipping box is suitable. But perhaps a really efficient/strong metal corner could give you the strength needed with less space or wood (those 1″x2″s). A good design could cut down cost and size. A quality plywood, like the hardwood (birch) with more layers (7 or 9 instead of 3 or 5) would provide a better and stronger box however more expensive.
I am looking forward to seeing some of your results.
Some years back, I purchased a big a$$ canvas German Quartermasters bag for storage of soft items like sleeping back, its bulky but can be stuffed in odd corners. I like your idea of custom cases though, maybe staggering the spacing of wheel casters so that they stock easier ? Using pegboard for the sides would also save some room, the frames are what holds up the weight anyway.
First time I’ve seen this topic brought up – good post sir.
Good Ideas – Thanks for sharing.
I use Baltic Birch plywood a lot, but the cost is VERY prohibitive. a 5′ x 5′ sheet of 1/2″ is north of $45 these days. I can get a 4′ x 8′ sheet of 1/2″ sanded pine (mid-range) for ~$23. Baltic Birch is great stuff, I use it for a lot of projects, but I’m designing these so I could make about 50 or so of these to store my preps.
I have figured out a cost-cutting measure for the side supports, a ferring strip ripped down the middle. A 8′ ferring strip is $1.15 right now, which translates into 75 cents a board foot for lumber. The problem is you need to sort through them to find one that is straight, and it won’t stay straight for very long.
More development this weekend, with updates next week.
You missed the point. Books are important, and I have all of mine in physical, not digital form. But can a book play a movie to entertain the kids? take a picture of the scumbag who tried to kill you before you bury him? Document the proof and “scene of the crime” so that in a couple years when the Rule of Law comes back and they dig this scumbag out of your front yard you don’t go to jail? Play solitaire? Facilitate secure and encrypted communications with others?
Books are nice, computers are better.