Archive for the ‘Uncategorized’ Category

Chaos, never-ending labor, and more

Monday, August 27th, 2012

I’ve had to slack off on posting to reprioritize my labor into some home improvement projects, my career, and other not-so fun obligations. I meant to take a couple weeks off, not a whole month!

I’ve been working feverishly (& probably foolishly) around the house with a few improvement projects, a thorough cleaning of the basement, re-organization of my preps, and catching up on cleaning and maintenance. The largest project, by far, is a sturdy fence for the back yard. My dogs have learned they can chew through the wire fence to terrorize small animals in the neighborhood. I have twelve of the sixteen post holes dug and posts mounted, and I have to give myself a pat on the back for accomplishing what I have completed so far.

New England is rock country, and you can’t dig a 10″ hole without pulling at least half the volume in head-sized rocks. I visited many stores looking for an American-made post-hole digger before reluctantly buying the Kobalt one from Lowes. I’ve returned two of them so far, and bent my digging bar so may times it looks like a swizzle-stick. They won’t take the digging bar back, claiming only by running it over with a truck could I get it into that shape. I have a full set of callouses again, after many burst blisters. I can only dig 1-2 holes a night after work before my back is spasming, and my hands are clenched into claws.

Once the last holes are done, then the rest will go up fast. I took advantage of the recent tax-free weekend to buy all the supplies, which included stainless steel screws, which will make attaching the pickets easy, and last a long time. I need to decide if I will paint the pickets on the fence, or before I attach them… I’m using an opaque stain, because paint will peel in 2-3 years. The stain was much more expensive, but should stay better-looking for longer.

The fence is 4×4 pt posts in 36″ deep holes with 4″ of gravel on the bottom for drainage. 2×4 pt boards are used as rails, attached to the front of the 4×4 posts, then 1×6 roughsawn pine will be used for pickets. the more I think of it, the more likely I will rough cut the pickets, stain them en mass, then cut them to final length with the cut end up so i can touch them up after they are attached.

Work has been busy, with me having to work the last three out of four weekends – two without any “comp time” – which sucks because I’m salaried. We now have nothing to do, so it looks like I can try to find the end of the Internet on company time. At least I’ll now have some time to write some quality posts – something this blog sorely needs. I also need to start to study for a couple of very difficult certifications. Part of this flurry of activity is to free up evenings to give me time to study. One of these exams has a failure rate of over 80%, and is no joke.

Looks like I will soon have the raise promised to me in February, which will allow me to buy two key preps. An alternative energy system, and some body armor.

Another reason I took this hiatus from the blog was because of the stress caused by the endless warning-signs and noise from the eminent collapse of the EU and our own economic collapse. I am afraid that this is going to happen soon, sooner than I can save up for some land in Maine and build a cabin on it. I’m afraid I won’t learn how to garden soon enough. I fear how many are going to show up at my doorstep, and how they will react when I tell them to piss off.

The stress was too much, so I’ve thrown myself into these projects. Plus, I’ve been guilty of slacking off instead of taking care of these a little at a time over the last five years. Now I’m paying the price.

I’ve rambled enough, time to figure out an alternative energy system that will work for me here in Mass, and can be used in Maine if/when I get my land.

 

 

 

 

Another Neuron Connects – Macroeconomics

Thursday, July 19th, 2012

I was reading Zero Hedge yesterday when I had an epiphany of sorts. I’ve been trying to figure out why the Fed is pursuing their current policy, when it all snapped into place. Or, most of it, as the modern global economy makes about as much sense to any one person as the quantum soup of an atom.

Right now, the Fed is following a policy of steady inflation. The official number is ~2%, but the real number is ~5%.  If they maintain this policy, with small bursts of Quantitative Easing, like Operation: Twist that is not picked up by the MSM radar, then we will sit in this Japanese-style stagflation for years. Tax revenue will go down, and government spending will go up, resulting in larger and larger deficits until the whole thing implodes. These growing deficits piss off investors in government bonds – the only thing keeping our government liquid, because the near-zero returns are actually negative interest rates. As foreign investor-states (China, Japan, etc.) see their long-term profits vanish, they will counter the ZIRP (Zero Interest Rate Policy) with currency and/or trade wars. China fired the first warning shot loud and clear when the unpinned their currency from ours.

The other option the Fed has is a quick, hyperinflationary demise. Big QE, leads to big spending and higher tax revenues. Inflation will go up- way up – to 6-8% officially, but unofficially it will reach 15% or more. This pisses off our foreign investor-states by giving their current bonds a nasty inflationary haircut. At some point they will move their wealth into other vehicles that have more financial stability and the US dollar plummets in value vs. other currencies. Once the true inflation rate hits Joe Sixpack, and his welfare benefits go up, but the cost of all his food and beer go up three times faster, we will have a currency crisis. Bank runs and holidays, hoarding, black markets, etc. As confidence wanes, people will want more and more dollars for the same goods and services. Welcome to the Wiemar Republic.

The unspoken option is to take the medicine now, and to raise interest rates. The housing market will collapse, along with many, many other sectors of our economy in a semi-controlled crash. It will suck, but if we are kept informed we might have a country to call our own afterwards. Iceland did it, we can too. The question is who want’s to go down in the history books as the President or Congress that blew it all up?

Stackable Storage Boxes – Step By Step Instructions

Monday, July 16th, 2012

For the discussion and explanation of the design, please refer to Stackable Storage Boxes – Foreword. For the purposes of this writeup, I will use the dimensions I used for mine. Unless specified, I’m using 1-1/4″ coarse drywall screws, and I pre-drill every hole with a gizmo that also recesses the head of the screw.

1) Determine the size of box you want to build. Figure the dimensions of what you wish to hold – or what feels natural for you, and work from there. My dimensions are 17 – 1/2″ wide, 13 -1/2″ deep, and 11″ tall.

2) Cut the pine boards for the sides to length and width. I’m using 1×6 pine boards, which are really 3/4″ by 5-1/2″. I rip a board into 1-3/4″ wide strips, you get 3 from a full width board. This thin center board is the center board, with full-width 1×6 boards on each side.

3) Cut the side straps to length, which is equal to the width of your side. I cut mine a tad short, as it isn’t a critical dimension, and going back tot he miter saw to trim one that is a little long slows you down. My straps are made from a ferring strip ripped down the middle. This is the cheapest way to make these, and are roughly 1-1/8″ wide.

4) Assemble the sides. I use 1-1/4″ drywall screws. Be sure to pre-drill. Remember to have the center board 3/4″ taller than the others. The bottom strap is flush with the bottom, when attaching the center board, remember you have a 3/4″ void there. The top strap is attached flush to the top of the left and right boards, not the center one that becomes the tab.

5) Cut the bottom to size. The length is a critical measurement, as this sets the final width of your box. I cut the depth a tad smaller because it makes assembly a bit faster, and you cannot make three 16″ strips from a 4′x8′ sheet of plywood – the blade will remove 1/8″ per cut.

6)Attach the bottom to the sides. Attach the bottom 3/8″ ply to the top of the lower strap on the side. I pre-drill holes at a slight angle to get my impact wrench in. For my box, I use 2 screws per side.

7) Cut two straps to length. These fit under the front and back of the box, and are equal to the width of the plywood minus two times the thickness of your strap. Don’t do any math, measure it and cut it to length. Too tight and it will force the sides apart, too loose, and it doesn’t lock things in.  Mine are 14-3/32″, but ferring strips vary in thickness quite a bit.

8) Attach the bottom straps into place. I use 3 screws to attach each strap.

9) Cut the panels for the rear. I cut these about 1/8″ short on the height, and 1/16″ narrower. I’ve learned that allowing some “wiggle room” for the door on the box below is a good thing. Mine are 10-7/8″ by 17-7/16″

10) Attach the rear panel. I use 6 screws, two per side, and 2 along the bottom. The bottom screws are 1″ coarse drywall screws, otherwise they would stick out and catch your finger.

11) I added handles to make the boxes easier to carry and move around. I ripped a 2×4 1-1/2″ wide from each side, then cut them 6″ long. 2×4′s have a natural rounded edge on the outside corners, so these handles do not need to be sanded, and the flat edge (from the cut) is mounted against the side to give a flat edge to reference.

12) If you are going to have a box without a drop-down door, cut and attach the front, exactly as the rear is done in step #9 and #10.  If you are going to have a drop-down door, follow steps A through H.

A) To mount a drop down door, first cut a strip a tad narrower than the distance from the plywood to the bottom. For my design, this measurement is 1-5/16″ by 17-7/16″.

B) Attach this strip to the carcass, flush with the bottom, which leave a small gap at the bottom, to allow the box below’s door to expand and contract with the humidity, and not jam. I use one 1″ coarse drywall screw, because a longer screw would poke out the other side, where it could catch a finger. The hinges will finish mounting this strip in place.

C) Use the hinge to mark a line the width of the hinge in, then attach the hinge to the bottom strip with 1″ screws.  This is purely for aesthetics – the hinge is an easy way to mark their location consistently. I mount the hinge with the barrel inside because this allows me to attach the door without any spacers.

D) Measure the door, and cut it to size. I cut the door about 1/16″ narrow, and 1/8″ short.

E) Cut two notches in the door, from the sides in, about 1-1/2″ down from the top. A tablesaw blade is the perfect width (1/8″). These slots are for the eye-screws that are pinned to keep the door closed.

F) Mount the door to the hinges, I used #10-32 screws, 5/8″ long. I mount them with the head on the inside. I fount the little nub that sticks out acts as a stop to stop the door from falling all the way down. Plus, I was concerned the screw would stick in far enough to potentially break a glass jar on the inside. Note: originally I cut grooves for the hinges to allow the door to mount tighter, but this took way too long.

G) Close the door, and use an awl to mark and start holes in the sides for the eye-screws. Screw in the eye-screws so the pins are snug.

H) For pins, I used a pair of needle-nose pliers and some extra 12ga copper wire. I made a loop on one end, and tied some masonry string to it. I stapled the other end to the door so the pin wouldn’t get lost.

 

Stackable Storage Boxes – Foreword

Monday, July 16th, 2012

Foreword
The stacking storage box has been designed to be inexpensive to build, but sturdy and adaptable enough to handle varying tasks. The design is flexible enough to be scaled to suit nearly any application, limited by the load bearing capability of your materials.  This design is simple enough that it can be constructed without major power tools, although a tablesaw makes construction a lot easier. Post-TEOTWAWKI, this design can be manufactured with hand tools, but be sure to add screws to your preps. Nails don’t have the same holding power.

For materials, I’ve chosen 3/8″ thick plywood and 3/4″ pine boards.  These are readily available across the US in any big box store for reasonable cost. These are also the lightest materials that produce a sturdy box. I accidentally dropped a box loaded with about 25# of goods, and it survived with no damage.

One of the key features of this design is the height of the unit can be altered to whatever the goods will be stored in it. I built many units with a regular height, and then a few one-offs, for special items.

The Design

These stackable storage boxes consists of two sides made from 3/4″ thick pine.  These sides are built from an odd number of boards, all cut to the same length, with the center board attached 3/4″ taller than the others. This forms a tab on the top of the box, with a corresponding socket on the bottom to lock the boxes together when stacked.

The sides are held together with two strips, which also carry the weight of the boxes stacked above. The bottom is made from 3/8″ ply, and attached to the top of the strap holding the sides together. The rear is made from 3/8 ply, and is screwed into the sides.

Finally, the front is made from 3/8″ ply, and for boxes without a door, it is simply screwed into the sides. For those boxes with a door,  a strip of 3/8″ ply is attached to the front. Hinges are attached, and then a door is attached with slots cut into the top. These slots are to allow the eyehooks screwed into the side pass through. Pins secure the door closed, and are tied with string so they are not lost. The door is mounted so it drops down, allowing access to the contents when stacked.

Simple handles are attached to the sides to allow you to haul the boxes around. I made some from a ripped down 2×4.

The flaw of this design is the top is open, so a separate lid needs to be made to keep dust and such from getting inside. Another option would be to cut the middle boards 3/4″ short, and attach a 1/4″ ply top. These boxes would have to go on top of a stack, as the top wouldn’t have a tab to hold the stack together.

Tips and Tricks

As with any woodworking project, repeatability allows you to produce parts that can be cut in large numbers and assemble them later. Here is my miter saw, with a stop block set to 11″ for cutting the boards for sides.

 

Next, build them in large numbers. Cut all the side boards, then the side straps, then assemble all the sides, so on and so forth. Here I am sitting next to 9 boxes in I am building in one go.

Guess my new camouflage is working :)

I’m going to do a cost analysis in another post, It’s getting pretty late. I’m sure I’ll have some more tips and tricks as well. Let your imagination run a bit wild. Here is a stack of boxes with a “double-wide” box to hold lighter items.

I Just Can’t Get Ahead

Monday, July 9th, 2012

Just when you think the beating has stopped, that’s when your water heater starts to leak like a sieve, and needs to be replaced. I had a 1/4″ of water over the entire basement, and some of my stuff got pretty wet. All my important stuff was up on 2×4′s, but I still lost some stuff I was planning on selling at the yard sale.

And to make things worse, my phone is missing. I’ve checked everywhere but one couch i was sitting on while at a friends house, I’ll have to check that after work. It has all my photos for the wooden storage box project on it, and they have not been backed up to the iCloud for some stupid reason.

Natog’s Home for Free Men is now up to three tenants – My buddy left his wife this weekend. Dealing with that fallout and keeping his spirits up meant I got nothing done this weekend. Again.

I hope I get my phone back, as I really can’t afford to buy another one.

I just hope this is it. If I have to replace the whole water heater I’m going to have to do something I hate doing, and that is dipping into the credit card to help pay for it. If I do have to replace it, I will be buying one of those tankless models, which can run LP or natural gas. It will be more expensive, but it will be easier to scavenge and jury-rig for hot water post-teotwawki.

I wonder when I’ll be caught back up?

Where has the time gone?

Friday, July 6th, 2012

I must apologize for the lack of posting, things have been super-busy for me, and I’ve had a series of personal catastrophes to make my life even more complicated.

I brought the Jeep in for brakes and to fix a bad O2 sensor. $1200 later, I got it back. New brakes, rotors and calipers. Front U joint. My radiator blew while there. That wiped out a chunk of savings, along with the money I had set aside to finally put in a patio in the back yard. Maybe i’ll have enough in the fall.

A close friend had a stroke, but luckily there seems to be no permanent damage. Looks like the same thing Teddy Bruschi had, a small tear in an artery near the heart where clots are forming, then breaking free. Tip o’ the cap to modern medicine for the excellent care and thorough testing.

I saw Roger Waters at Fenway Park on Sunday. Great show! Any seats centered to the stage started at $400 in the nosebleeds, and went up to $2000 for front row. I paid $180 for a seat past the Pesky pole in a field box off right field. Cheapest seats without an obstructed view. The acoustics in Fenway suck, but I thought they did a great job with such a poor venue for a concert.

Lots and lots of family drama. I’m supporting my Mum, and told my brother to piss off. He’s burnt every bridge except for Mum and a single friend. Everyone else that he used to call a friend has cut him off. I wonder if it will ever get through his thick skull, but I doubt it.

I’ve been busting my butt trying to lose weight, but not having any success. At my six-month follow-up my doctor suggested I “drink a large glass of water before every meal” and to keep a food diary. The water is horseshit, I eat fairly small meals, portion control was tackled earlier on in my diet modifications. The food diary has backfired. Based on my weight and activity level I should be eating 3100 calories a day. I’m averaging 2250 a day, and exercising 3-4 days a week. I had blood drawn last week for him to check my thyroid and testosterone levels. Let’s see what the tests comes back with.

I’m finally getting caught up on the cleaning, yard work, etc. that i’ve neglected over the years. I get odd looks when mowing my lawn with a 35# backpack on, but that’s almost 1.5 miles of walking, and at a very fast pace.  when not pushing a lawnmower, I’m doing about 2.5 miles in 50 minutes. I need to up the weight again.

The unfortunate part of the areas I walk, public parks and state forests is that they are now what I refer to as “pickle parks.” Homosexuals congregate there for anonymous sex. I’m of the opinion that I don’t care what two (or more) consenting adults do in private – their home or motel room. Not a public area like a rest stop on the highway or a park in the middle of a city where families bring their kids, or a state forest where there are public hiking or bike trails. I got this new workout shirt just for this situation:

I have every right to use state or city land without catching two pickle-smoochers playing hide the kielbasa. Go fuck some other dude in your home, or get a hotel room. I don’t want to see some dude fucking his girlfriend, either. Keep it behind closed doors, and show some decency. BTW, they trick they pull is to have their dogs with them so if the law asks them what they are doing, they can claim to be “walking their dog,” when everyone knows what they are really there for.

I’ve built a bunch of the wooden storage boxes, and took a bunch of pictures to document it. I promise to do a full write-up this weekend. They could be built with all hand-tools, but a table saw makes it SO much easier. I’ll have to keep track of some tips and tricks for those of you without a woodworking shop.

Work has gone from bored-to-tears to ten-hour days. All the kids are out, so I’ve got a lot of work in schools to bang out. I wonder how long it will last? The economy is still in the shitter, regardless of the lies coming from the MSM.Many businesses are scaling back on their IT expenditures, which means less work for me. I had one customer go back to using a spreadsheet for their bookkeeping because their accounting program shit itself, and the cost for support was too much.

I’m going to have a yard sale to purge some of my crap. I’ve started at one end of the house, and am mercilessly accumulating items for sale. I’d like to get a couple hundred from it in cash, but we will see. Originally I wanted to use it to buy silver, but looks like I’ll be replenishing the rainy-day-fund.

Hope everyone else is enjoying the summer! More better articles to follow!

Thoughts on Rifle Training

Tuesday, June 26th, 2012

I’ve evolved a bit in my shooting, and I wanted to share what I’ve learned. I’ve finally have my rifle tuned the way I want it, and I’ve been putting in some range time. I also want to go into what I have been doing at the range (& at home) to improve my skills.

When doing research on the Internet, the first thing I discovered is many of the people out there are calling the AR-15 / M4 platform a “rifle.” That is wrong. The M4/AR15/Klashnikov/etc are carbines, not rifles. I started to go on a lengthy tangent of defining what the differences are, but that is for another post. Your firearm is a tool, never forget that. When your ape ancestor threw a rock at a rabbit to kill it began the refinement of projecting force at a distance.

Just as a 23 ounce framing hammer is used for one job, and a tackhammer another, a rifle and a carbine are two tools used for different purposes. A rifle kills people at 800+ yards, and a carbine has trouble reliably being lethal past 200*. If I was kicking in doors in an urban environment, then the weight of my rifle would be a hindrance when compared to the speed and maneuverability of the carbine. Also, the ammunition is heavier for the rifle, which limits how many rounds you can carry before the weight slows you down.

Because of these differences, you train differently if you are using a carbine tan if you were using a rifle. Many of the youtube videos I watched were fine for carbines, but not for rifles. I have no intention on jumping over cars and leaping from cover to cover while firing. One, my gear is to heavy to be speedy while doing it. Two, I don’t have enough ammo on me to be wasting shots.

If I need to move from cover to cover, then I’ll do it at a sprint, with someone covering me. I can train for that anywhere. I intend on using the rifle’s strengths, and engage targets from 200-600 yards away. Let them shoot back all they want, I have a significant ballistic advantage. This means movement in a “hot zone” is slow and deliberate, where I spot the enemy long before they can spring their ambush or whatever.

So my primary training is centered around target acquisition and engagement at longer, varying distances. Take four silhouette targets, and draw two symbols over each of it’s shoulder. I’ve used greek letters, but circles, squares, triangles, +, -, =, etc. would be fine. You place the targets randomly between 200 and 500 yards. Then you get into various positions — kneeling, sitting, kneeling with rifle in shooting sticks, prone w/ and w/out bipod. Then, your partner calls out random symbols and you need to hit that target. It helps if he calls a few that are not out there.

If your rifle does not have a magnifier, then your memory better be good. Maybe use binoculars to spot for yourself, then line up the shot with holographic or iron sights.

I also practice shooting with my heart rate up. I normally do this with my .22LR, but once in a while I do it with the big rifle. I do get odd looks at the range when doing jumping jacks between 5 shot strings, but I know what happens to my accuracy when the heart is pounding.

Having your buddy load your magazines with random “snap caps” in them is very handy for training weapon malfunctions. My training partner and I randomly will yell “reload” to practice swapping out magazines during other drills.

I do practice some other drills, but my range doesn’t allow it live, so I have been doing it in my basement. Bringing the slung rifle into a firing position while transitioning from standing to kneeling, or from standing to prone. I also practice the prone to kneeling and kneeling to prone transitions as well, although not as much.

The most important training is simply shooting. I have been told numerous times that if you can shoot a .22LR accurately at different ranges, then you will have learned everything you need to know about shooting the big rifles, with the sole exception of the recoil. My .22 has about an 18″ drop from 50 yards to 100 yards. The light bullet is knocked around by the wind, and if the light is right I can watch it arc to it’s target because it travels so slow.

For a while I was going down the path of a bench-rest shooter. You are so much more accurate with your rifle in a rest, but it is a false reading. The rest is a crutch, as is a bipod. I can put a bipod on my weapons, but to better replicate “real world” conditions I throw down a bag stuffed with crushed walnut shells, or use a wooden rest with my hand to brace it. If I find myself post-TEOTWAWKI being able to shoot from a bench, then I’ll take it, but we are more likely to have to shoot from improvised positions. So that is what I practice.

I have changed my M1A significantly since I bought it. I’m going to refrain from posting pictures because the weapon is very unique now, and I’m still trying to be relatively anonymous. I have replaced the stock M1A chassis with an aftermarket one from Troy Industries. This makes the weapon heavier, but the barrel is now in line with the ‘AR15′ style stock, which allows me to handle the recoil better, and reduces muzzle climb by a lot. This allows me to keep the sights on-target for follow-up shots.

The chassis also allows a ‘AR15′ pistol grip. This gives the weapon a much more natural feel, and allows easier manipulation of the weapon. This is an advantage in an urban or even woodland environment as you move through brush and branches.  I went with a Hogue grip, as I liked the feel of it. A grip that could hold stuff would have been nice, but my rifle is heavy enough as it is.

I bought & “pinned” a Mako recoil reducing stock for the remodel. In Massachusetts, adjustable stocks are illegal, so mine is bolted so it can only lock into one position, but still allows the recoil reduction to work. The stock has a spot to store two AA batteries, so I have a couple lithium ones in there for my EOTech.

The chassis has the picatinny rails, but the only thing I have attached are rail protectors and my sight. I don’t intend on kicking in doors, so lasers and flashlights are for Mallninjas, not me. I do have a bipod that attaches, but it is pretty heavy. I think I’ll get one of the foregrips that convert into a bipod, but I want to see one in person first. I have my doubts they could handle the recoil of a rifle.

Finally, I have added my EOTech holographic sight. I have the one with a 65 MOA ring and a 1 MOA dot, with the “nightvision” button. You never know, I could hit the lottery and be able to afford a nightvision sight one day. I love the sight. Absolutely love it. I was reliably hitting a two inch circle at 100 yards with it, from an improvised rest.

There are two accessories I would like to add. I need a sling and a magnifier for the EOTech. slings are intensely personal, and the one I ordered off the internet doesn’t work for me. Next gun show I’ll be shopping for one. A magnifier, with the flip-up mount, allows me to reach out and be even more accurate with the EOTech.

The other nice thing about the picatinny rails is I can mount my old 9-40x50mm target scope on the M1A for giggles. Once I get my handloads done for my hunting rifles, I’ll make some for the M1A, and sight in the scope. It might come in handly if I get some property at the top of a long ravine or something.

Then again, I could take it to an egg shoot, and piss off all the old men when I out shoot their $3000 30# rifles and $500 rests…

Safe Haven Assets

Tuesday, June 12th, 2012

We have all been told to buy this or that to protect our wealth, but until now I have not seen a solid explanation as to what we should be buying. I stumbled across this article on ZeroHedge.com which references an excellent presentation by Raoul Pal titled “The End Game.” This presentation outlines what is happening now, and where the financial and political systems are heading. Eidesis Capital (or is it Edelweiss Capital?) published another presentation, which is a natural continuation of Raoul Pal’s presentation entitled “The Big Reset.” It was in Eidesis/Edelweiss Capital’s presentation that I found what I was looking for. I cannot find the original presentation, so I will have to quote from ZeroHedge.com.

First, let us establish what qualities are desirable in a “safe haven asset.” A “safe haven asset” is what preserves our wealth when the financial markets collapse.

Ideal Attributes – Valuable, uniform, divisible, portable, storable.
No One’s Liability -Physical form, unlevered, non-financial custody; no reliance on capital markets.
Multiple Exit Strategies – Diversity of buyers; ability to exit via different currencies.
Geographic Diversification – The only feasible way to manage sovereign risks.
Flexibility – Ownership arrangements must be actively managed to address evolving conditions

Let’s go through this list, and I’ll add a bit of detail for those (like myself) who are not in the financial services profession.

Value – The asset needs to be universally accepted as having worth. The precise amount of worth is variable, but If I drop a silver ingot on the table of an arms market in Somalia, I can buy food and weapons.

Uniform – The asset has to minimize the variability of its perceived value. A original Monet might be worth millions to a collector, but to the aforementioned arms dealer, it is worth considerably less. Gold and silver have different value, but we can easily determine the quantity of gold or silver with a scale and a testing kit.

Divisible – If we cut a gold bar in half, we lose nothing. We chop the Mona Lisa in half and we have nothing. Divisibility allows us to “make change” easily, allowing us to freely convert between assets.

Portable -  If the asset is not a dense store of value, like Rawles’ Nickle-saving, it is not useful for us. A two thousand dollars buys a lot of Nickles, enough to fill a few score of ammo cans, where a one ounce gold coin fits in your pocket.If you need to travel to a market ten miles away, you are going to have a hard time transporting all those Nickles.

Storable – Whatever the medium is to carry our wealth forward, it has to be easily stored. Paintings need climate control so they do not disintegrate, paper money (either cash or bearer bonds) can be ruined by fire or water.

Durability – I am going to add another quality, durability. If the asset can be easily damaged, then it is no use to us. Even land can fail this durability test. What if you buy farmland in a river’s flood zone? Or if you have a plot of land used for timber growth, and have a wildfire roar through?

So what do we buy? Eidesis/Edelweiss Capital’s recommendations are:

Real Estate – “Real” but immovable; not uniform, usually owned with leverage; easily taxable.
Diamonds – Valuable, portable and storable but neither uniform nor divisible.
Art, Antiques, Collectables – Issues with subjective valuations, authenticity and provenance.

As with most goldbugs, this leads them to the following conclusion:

Silver – “Poor Man’s Gold” but impractical for large sums.
Platinum – The bullion is not as readily available as gold.
Palladium – Somewhat esoteric.

GOLD – Always liquid, widely available, universally accepted, deepest markets, global pricing
Gold -  2,500-year unbroken track record of liquidity and “Safe Haven” performance.

I’m not a goldbug. I’m going to diversify my assets, because in 1933 the federal government kicked in doors to seize gold. Anything you buy can be taken away from you. Diversification is the only way to keep yourself from being wiped out with the stroke of a bureaucrat’s pen. Moderation is a good thing. As I balance my dual-life (prepper/”normal” citizen) I do the same with my finances. Here is a list of my traditional assets.

  • Silver – (I’m too poor for gold) ~5# in a mix of “junk silver” coins and 1oz rounds.
  • Gold – two 1/10 ounce coins.
  • Cash – one and a half month’s worth of bills, and adding as budget allows.
  • My home – Although I am underwater in my mortgage, I have physical possession.
  • Comic Books – I gave up collecting a long time ago, but I still have quite a few that are very rare. Ulike the vast majority of comics there are a few that will never go down in value, and post-collapse will be worth a lot to collectors. Here is a sample of my best:
    • Incredible Hulk #181 (First appearance of Wolverine)
    • New Mutants #87 (First appearance of Cable)
    • Giant-Size X-Men #1 (First appearance of the new team)
    • The Killing Joke (rare Batman graphic novel)
  • Other collectibles ( a few first print books, baseball, hockey, and football cards from the 70′s, Star Trek/Wars memorabilia, WWII memorabilia, a few antiques)
  • Retirement (401k, 403b, IRA, Mutual funds, a few shares of stock)

I don’t have enough in my retirement, the crash of 2008 took two-thirds of my nest egg. I’m underwater in my mortgage, but I have physical possession of the house, which is worth more than the paper in a collapse. If I sold all of these assets at full market value, I would have roughly $100k minus the $60k I’m in the hole in my house, leaves $40k. It’s not about dollars and cents – even if America’s unit of currency is called a “dollar” after the collapse, it has nothing to do with our current monetary unit. Do not forget this, as it skews your thinking. You compare apples to apples, when one apple is really an orange.

Sadly, there isn’t much out there that can carry your wealth through a crisis. Food stores, weapons, skills, medical supplies and gadgetry do not carry wealth forward, they allow us to make wealth during a collapse, or preserve what assets we have. Out of all of these items, firearms have the greatest potential to carry wealth through the crisis. Even if a firearm is not collectable, like my FrankenFAL, as the world climbs out of it’s mini-dark age the ability to manufacture quality firearms will take a few years. During this time, I might be able to flip my FrankenFAL to a designer for them to duplicate. Perhaps a father wants to give his son an assault rifle for his “coming into manhood” present?

I’m going to continue to look for alternatives on how to carry wealth forward. Please share your thoughts via comments or e-mails so others might be able to preserve their wealth.

Digital Communications

Thursday, June 7th, 2012

I wanted to share something I take for granted, as a gamer, but most preppers are unaware of. There are many ways for you to have a conversation with someone that is somewhat secure, and with some computer know-how, they can be configured for secure communications over the Internet.

Part of gaming today is a ubiquitous access to cheap VOIP (Voice over IP) services. Online groups of people, called Guilds (MMO’s) or Clans (FPS/RTS), have a service paid for by a member, or by pooling money that allows the members (& Guests) to talk with each other to coordinate their actions. A friend of mine has kept one of these servers to act as a running conference call with friends that have moved on to other games, “real-life” friends and family.

Xbox Live has a voice chat feature, and I’m not sure if the PS3 has one, but if not it will soon. The saturation of the home with this VOIP technology has led to a few opportunities and concerns for us.

1) More ways for .gov to monitor us. Decrypting unsecured VOIP is child’s play. I wonder if .gov could turn the microphone on your Xbox or PC on remotely, and listen to you.  There was a ruckus about a school turning the camera on loaned out laptops last year…

2) More ways for people to communicate, for free.

3) With a bit of tweaking, secure communications that will take .gov a while to crack.

For options, let me run down the list. There is the aforementioned Xbox live. Then there is the “PC Gamer” VOIPs – Ventrillo, Teamspeak, Mumble. There is also Skype. And there is another series of open source applications out there. Asterix is an open source voicemail (&more) system.

A quick search for “ventrillo server” or “teamspeak server” will give you hundreds of companies running the server software.  I have used typefrag.com in the past for a guild, and their current prices are $2 for a 5person, and $4 for a 10 person server. A visa gift card with some $ on it and you have an anonymous server available for easy communication.

Obfuscation will only get you so far, though. The communications between your pc and the server can be intercepted. The company could be recording your conversations either on their own, or under a subpena. So how do we get around that?

Each of the “PC Gamer” VOIP services is built from an open source project, and the server software is easily downloaded and installed on a computer. So, if you have an extra PC lying around, then install the software and configure your firewall to forward the port you are using for communications to the internal IP of your Ventrillo/Teamspeak/Murmur server.

You now have 100% control of your data, but the communications can still be intercepted. The next step is to configure a VPN, or Virtual Private Network. A VPN is a secure, encrypted connection between two computers. On your VOIP server you configure the VPN, then close the holes opened for your VOIP program — you don’t want any unencrypted communications. Forward the VPN connections on the firewall, then when the users VPN in, they are part of your private network, and connect their VOIP client to your servers internal address.

Firewalls commonly have VPN capabilities, but those are the “prosumer” or professional models. Most of the Netgear or Dlink models you have at the home do not have this functionality.

With this configuration, you have a secure digital communication system that cannot be easily listened to. It’s a bit of a paint to set up, and anyone snooping around will want to know what is going on. If you have a blog for instance that can be quite critical about our federal government, then when you start something like this up, then they might do something about it. Otherwise, I would already have this running. Also, your home IP address ties you to a physical location, so I wouldn’t just give this out to any dude off the street.

Here is a diagram to help make sense of it all.

Some howtos:

windows 7 VPN server

Windows XP VPN Server

 

Circumstance, Choice, Consequences

Thursday, May 31st, 2012

Life starts as an assortment of circumstances, followed by choices and consequences. Please forgive me if I get a bit philosophical, I have been spending a lot of time thinking lately, trying to figure out what I need to do.
You cannot pick your parents, you cannot choose which social class, race, or gender you are born into. Until you are old enough to think for yourself, you are a prisoner of your circumstances. I could not choose to be gay, or black, or a woman. I couldn’t choose to have rich or poor parents, and I could not guide my parent’s decisions while an infant. For example, my father did not hold me until I was over six months old, and he never changed a diaper on me or my brother.

(I understand that in some circles there is controversy surrounding homosexuality, and whether it is a choice or not. I know many gay men and women and except for the one exception, there was no choice in the matter. Maybe I’ll do a post about this another time. )

Once you are able to make decisions then then circumstances wane in importance to consequences. If you shoplifted candy and got caught, then whether you are white or black, rich or poor is not as important as the decision to steal. Now, I’m not talking about stealing to survive, I’m talking about pocketing a candy bar.

There comes a point in someone’s life when they have the opportunity to break free from your circumstances. If your father beat you as a youth, you can choose not to beat your child. If your parents are good-for-nothing mooches, you can choose to work rather than mooch from the system. This is one of the most pivotal points in a person’s life. Writers try to capture this in a novel or on the big screen as it a naturally climatic point. Although sometimes you don’t realize how important it was until years later.

Let’s take one of my favorite movies, Pulp Fiction. Samuel Jackson’s character, Jules, decides to give up his life of crime and “walk the earth.” John Travolta’s character, Vincent, decides not to sleep with Mia, Uma Thurman’s character. Butch, played by Bruce Willis, makes the choice to turn around and rescue Marsellus, even though Marsellus was trying to kill him a hour or so ago.

Pulp fiction is a great movie, and these strings of choices and their consequences are what makes the movie along with great and memorable characters. Your life is a movie, although the dramatic moments aren’t captured for others to enjoy.

Not making a choice is a choice in itself. If you are browbeaten by your spouse and find it easier to say “Yes, dear” instead of standing up for yourself – then that is a choice. If you stay together with this spouse “for the children” then that’s a choice.

I find many people I know tangentially who are afraid of change. They suffer cruelty from those who once loved them, suffer through a soul-sucking job, and waste time watching sports or searching for the end of the Internet instead of doing something productive with their lives. Watch Joe Versus the Volcano, it’s a good movie and illustrates my point.

Change is good. Even dire change like the collapse of our civilization and the starvation and death of millions can be a good thing. This collapse will happen no matter what you do. You could put all your money into the right bank, or take it out, buy bonds with your life savings and nothing will be different at the national level. It is like watching a car crash from a quarter-mile away, there is nothing you can do to change it.

But, and this is an important but, you can affect the survivors. Pull over and administer first aid. Or in the case of the collapse, retain your humanity and compassion. Give someone three meals and a cot for a fair days labor.
This collapse will happen, I’m thinking that it can be the MOARB (Mother Of All Reset Buttons) for many people. The collapse is a circumstance, partially mitigated by choice, but we cannot say for certain that even the most established prepper will survive and thrive afterwards.

Change is the fertilizer for growth. Do not fear it, but embrace it.


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