Posts Tagged ‘quick one’

Quick One – Homemade Glue

Thursday, January 12th, 2012

If you are going to stick stuff together then you are going to need glue. Here are two ways to make glue from animal byproducts.

Hide Glue

1) Scrape or sand dried rawhide and collect the dust. The smaller, the better, but you could chop it into small pieces.

2) Make sure the hide is defleshed, and clean off as much dirt and grime as possible.

3) Add to a pot with hot water and simmer (just below a boil) forever. At least 24 hours, maybe 36 hours. Keep topping off with water.

4) When you have a honey-colored syrup, strain out any remaining dirt and undissolved bits of hide with cheesecloth.

5) Return the filtered liquid to heat, and simmer it down to the consistency of honey, or maybe a bit thicker. Commercial plants keep this mixture at 160F for this stage, and use a vacuum to help evaporate the excess water off. Do not let it boil – the glue will be ruined.

6) pour the thickened mixture into a pan, and allow it to cool away from sunlight.

7) Once the mixture gels, remove it from the pan and cut into thin squares. It should be the consistency of really, really thick jell-o.

8) Run a string through the squares and allow to dry away from any sunlight. The resulting flakes last forever if kept away from any moisture and sunlight.

9) To reconstitute the glue, add the flakes to a little water and heat to 140F. It should be the consistency of pasty-honey. keep the glue at that temperature to use it. They used to use glue-pots for just this purpose.

Fish Glue

1) Collect a bunch of fish scales. Rinse them about a billion times to remove any fish smell from them. If you don’t the stink will be unbearable. 12oz of scales makes a couple of ounces of glue.

2) In a sealed, heatproof container, cover the scales with water.

3) Toss the sealed container into a pot of boiling water. Make sure the container doesn’t let water into the container.

4) Allow the scales to boil, then cook on low heat for 6-8 hours.

5) the scales should have dissolved, giving you a clear, strong glue. Keep cool in a sealed container when not in use.

 

Working with Animal Glues

  • Keep your joints tight. These glues have no gap-filling properties.
  • Hide glue needs to be kept at 140F while working with it. When done, allow to cool and just re-heat to continue. You might have to add a little water every now and then to the glue pot.
  • Open time for these glues is about a minute – plan your glue-ups accordingly, and use dry runs to make sure you can pull it off.
  • An advantage to hide glue is you do not need a lot of clamping power. The glue naturally pulls the joint tighter.
  • Fish glue is thinner and less sticky than hide glue.
  • Both glues have poor moisture resistance, use a wax to protect it.
  • The strength of the glue can vary widely. The temperature used to cook down and the amount of water used to reconstitute are the primary factors.

Hide glue can be purchased in granules and kept indefinitely. Five pounds of crystals sell for ~$35.  All other woodworking glues have very short shelf lives. Urea formaldehyde and yellow woodworking glues lose their strength after a year. I’ve stored yellow glue carefully, and managed to squeak it out to the two year mark. I have not had much luck with CA glues – they go bad after 6 months once opened. storing the sealed containers in the freezer does extend the CA glue’s life.

Hopefully this helps! As always please contribute by adding comments or an e-mail.

Quick One – Hidden Door

Monday, December 26th, 2011

I stumbled upon some hinges for creating a hidden door.

Hidden Hinge

Hidden clostes are not a solution for everyone, but for those who are looking into it, I hope this helps!

Quick One – Resume

Tuesday, December 6th, 2011

My fears of a pink slip has reminded me of the need to keep your resume updated at all times. I found this link of 44 tips for resume’s, and I figured I’d add a few of my own, since I have written a bahzillion of them and have had to read through them to hire people as well. My tips are more appropriate for the Tech sector, as that’s where I work, but they should be helpful for other sectors.

  1. Check it for spelling errors at least twice, then twice again the next day. Spelling errors are a one-way trip to the round file.
  2. One page per five years of experience. Nothing pisses me off more than reading a four page resume for some noobie just out of college.
  3. Different formats for different purposes. 99% of resume’s are scanned by computers for buzzwords. Make sure the buzzwords are there for them to data mine. I keep this on a separate page, and submit the whole doc for mining, but only hand in the other pages when there for the interview. I have copies of “the list” on me, but only if they ask for it.
  4. The article suggest you refrain from jargon and slang, but if the manager understands it, then that’s what you should include in the resume.
  5. Put your certifications up top, end with the “big list of stuff.”  on the last page it is customary to list all the software, hardware, OSes, etc. you have experience with.
  6. Don’t pad it. If you pad your resume you will be discovered during the technical review of the hiring process. I end the interview right there with the “Thank you for wasting my time. This interview is over.”
  7. Make sure the document prints out correctly on any printer. nowadays you e-mail them into recruiters and HR departments who then print them out. Snail-mail is dead. (This is one I’m guilty of, and had to re-do the whole document.)
  8. To make the big bucks have it professionally written. (I’d do this now if I had the cash.)
  9. Keep your resume out there. You never know if a dream position is going to open up only five minutes away at twice your current salary. (I am guilty of this as well, the recruiters chain call me for anything computer-related and waste a lot of my time. Plus, the boss doesn’t like that your resume is out there…)

A good prep to have, even if you are self-employed. Sometimes to get a gig you need to provide current resumes of your employees. If you part of a mass-layoff getting your resume into an opening somewhere else first is a big plus.

Quick One – Human Power

Thursday, December 1st, 2011

A average human can output 75 watts of power as a sustained work load – as in pedaling a bike all day. Here is a summary for work loads of petal power, from this article. For reference 75w is equal to .1 HP (horsepower).

Duration Power (in Watts)
8+ Hours 75w
2 Hours 150w
30 Minutes 225w
< 2 Minutes 350w

Also, you will generate about 150watts of heat while performing the work. If you don’t have access to water for hydroelectric power, and live in the north like I do, then running an alternator off of a bike might be the perfect way to keep your batteries topped off. Flywheels will help you keep going, as you will just need to add work to overcome friction, and the loss of whatever means you are using to convert rotational energy into the desired power output. The rotational inertia helps keep your pace even, and gives your muscles something to work against.

The size of the flywheel, gear ratios and all that jazz will depend on what your trying to do, and what your peddler can handle. Just remember, if your going from a big gear/wheel to a small gear/wheel you gain speed but lose torque. From small to big you add torque but lose speed.

The above article has all kinds of petal powered gizmos for you to play with. Enjoy!

Quick One – Plumbing

Friday, November 18th, 2011

In my travels I come across tidbits of information that are probably useful for people. Instead of making a big post about them, I’m just going to dump it into a small post so people get the info.

The first one is about plumbing. I was trying to see what it would take to have off-grid plumbing. I’ll poop in the woods, but I prefer the home-bowl-advantage, and be able to use my water-heater, faucets, etc. Here is what I found.

The water pressure in your home is between 30 and 80 PSI (pounds per square inch), most homes have it from 40-60 PSI. The weight of the water is what gives it pressure, and this is independent of the shape of the pipe, or whatever. (took me a while to figure that out. It’s a little counter-intuitive.) Water gains .43 PSI per foot of height.

So, to have full water pressure  at a toilet, the bottom of the water tank has to be 100 feet (.43 psi/foot x 100 feet = 43psi) higher than the toilet.

I did some quick googleing, but i did not see a minimum water pressure requirement for a toilet, so we probably could get by with less height. This is obviously impractical, as up here in New England, you need to bury pipes over 4 feet down so they don’t freeze.

Hope this helps!

EDIT:  San Antonio Plumber left a comment suggesting the use of a small pump and bladder to build air pressure. A quick google found this site, which explains how the bladder works. A 1/2 HP booster pump looks like it goes for ~$325, but I’m not sure how much power it will use.   Here is a diagram on how it works:

 

My original research was for a pure gravity-feed system for a potential retreat, but I am sure this information will help others in planning their plumbing post TEOTWAWKI. Tip o’ the cap to San Antonio Plumber for the good info.


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